In Dot lake we decided to stop for lunch while it was pissing down above us. When we arrived we saw a single loghouse along the road with the sign "Postoffice". I knocked gently on the sidedoor because we werent sure if it really was a postoffice, it looked like a privite cabin. Tim, a man in his 60, opened the door and he toold us it was his house but he operated a small corner of it as a postoffice. Really nice man who let us having our lunch under the roof outside. He joined us while he smoked his pipe and told us stories about bear and moosehunting in the area. He told us, if you kill a moose up here you need to be able to pull the whole thing out right away. If you need to get back to organize with transport or so someone have to stay back and guard the moose with an fire arm. otherwise you can be sure a grizzly is eating on it when you get back. He told us that the grizzlys makes pretty good neighbors but the blackbears cause some trouble. One day he was out bluyeberrypicking on an area were they get heaps of berries. He was picking on a section with his firearm laying against a tree a couple of meters away. On the other side of the tractorpath a grizzly was eating his part of the berries, welll aware of each other. Suddenly the bear decides that the berries were much better on Tim side and he told us he didn't argue with him, he let him have the berries :). Before we took of he said they have had some trouble with a blackbear in the village the last couple of nights. When we took of we wondered, what village?, because we didn't se a single house :).
On the afternoon we arrived to Tok and headed straight away to the infocenter and later on Fast Eddies for a pizza and a Alaska Amber (beer). The girl wnated to give us a doggybag right away but we told here we aint gonna need that :). Later on we camped at the recreational area Tok River were we also took a restday . We meet Terry and Judie who was from Langley outside Vancouver and had a nice chat with them during the evening about traveling, ishockey and more.
From Tok we took of with the intention to stop in Tetlin for a smoko. As so many times before a dot on the map was nothing except for a couple of old loghouses. We did pretty well during the day with good weather and better winds . Lunch was consumed at a restarea with a great view over the Alaskan landscape. By the Time we arrived to Northway Junction it was time for a smoko. Northway J is an gasstation/giftshop/store runned by a couple of native canadian womens. When I enetered the building the first thing the lady said was
- "sorry, waterpump is broken so the showers dont work"
I looked behind me to se if she was talking to somebody else but there were noone there. apparently I looked like I needed a shower:).
- I aint after a shower, just a coke and a sit down :)
I love the signs they got in small countrystores like this. on the desc a note were saying
"Water is not working so coffemachin is out of business, maybee works another day"
Later on we continued and stopped for dinner at the porch to the closed visitor cenetr in tetlin national refuge. After a feed we realized that we only had 10 km to the canadian border and decided to take a bikeride to Canada during the evening and did so while OOH CANADA ecoing between the trees. The border control must have wonder what a hell is this, are we gonna let them in :). We sleept the firts night in Canada on some random hill along the road,you know, as you do:).
Next coming morning it was pissing down and we weren't extremely tempted for biking. Dressed in raingear we packed up our stuff while we also blessed the rain that kept the mosquitos away. During the night a puncture in Daves tire had let the air out so the first thing we had to do were to deal with that. I did the sanding and patching under my opened rainjacket while Dave handed me the stuff. With bad roads Dave got another couple of flats and by the time we rolled in to Beaver Creek we were, yeah guess what, soaked :). The day came to a sudden change there thou. weather cleared up and on the visitor centre they had they "Public service appriciation week" which meant BBQ and cake for all the visitors :).
The scenery after Beaver Creek start to get really nice with big jagged snowcapped mountaines. We found a spot along the river were we decided to camp for the night. Before dinner Dave had a wash in the river. I decided I couldn't bother with it and its only been 7 days since my last shower so it's not that bad yet :). Today we actually saw our first bear along the road. Since I started biking with Dave I have had a little bit of fun, but also, alittle bit concerned over his, what to say, soft attitude to put away food from the camp. I thought that after the sight of the bear today he was gonna be alittle bit more fuzzy about it. After the dinner I said
- Hey Dave, I'm gonna put up my foodbag in a tree, do you want me to take our?
- No worries mate, I got that sorted. came from a reading Aussie in his tent
I looked around and on an 2 meter hi post 30 meters from the tents, Daves Bag was hanging. If I would have walked under the post I would have hit the bag with my noose :). I laughed for my self and thought that it at leats keept it away from the tents :). Later on we joked that he problably is more use to koala bears.
The day after we continued our journey through beutiful scenery. after a long day with headwind we arrived to Burwash Landing at 5 pm. On the radio at the gasstation we heard that the last game of the stanley cup was just about to start so we headed down to the motel for a meal and to look at the game netween Boston and Vancouver. Guess we couldn't find a betetr place for watching the game than in a bar in Canada. During the game the place fills up with truckdrivers, travelers and locals that want to watch the game.....
The owner of the bar, an old fella called "Burwash Ollie" really hated the Vancouver team and for some reason, the whole BC. The tables around quickly filled up with beerbottles. A guy came in during the game and told Ollie that the dieselpump didn't work. His answer were pretty much. "fill up somewere else, we're wtaching hockey here":). During the game he always made his comments about the "Sedin sisters" as he called them which, according to him, was the biggest wankers the world ever seen. I said to him with a smile that was the swedes the team were built around.
"Bah, bullshit!they are pussys. On time they put a couple of eggs in there pants during a game and after, the eggs were intact"
I couldn'r argue with him anymore when the score was 3 to nothing for Boston. After the game we took of to the bar in Destruction Bay with a couple of native canadian womens.
Hangover and miserable we woke up in the motel in Burwash landing. After close to 2 weeks in the tent with my thin madress my first thought was, were the hell am I, is this a clean bed?. After a while I understood that I actually paid for it in my unsober condition the night before. Well, it's only stanley cup one time a year:).
We took of in the really strong headwind and it took us forever just to reach Destruction Bay 16 km south east. I stopped and waited for Dave
- What do you reckon mate, smoko?
I didnt't have to convince him to a break. After 2 fairly easy weeks from Anchorage we suddenly realized we were on pushbikes. The wind were close to that stage were you just pull over to wait it out and so we did at 4 a clock for a pestopasta a la Dave and a powernap. We continued after a while and put up Camp in a downhill 20 km before Haines Junction. In the morning the downhill showed up to take us pretty much all the way down to Haines J . 50 meters in front of us a doglooking animal crossed the road. we're not sure if it was a wolf or a coyote. felt a little bit to small to be a wolf but at the same time to big be a coyote. On arrival to haines we had breakfast outside the generalstore were I said goodby to my australian friend who was leaving for the ferry to Vancouver Island.
I decided to countinue towwards Whitehorse during the day and with amzing winds and slightly downhill on big stretches I reached Whitehorse the smae day after 180 km of biking. some days you're just able to cream it out:) I met heaps of bicyclists along the road, all of them heading north thou. Jeff from North Carolina, 2 swiss guys and a couple from Vancouver Island. They siad a lot of people are heading south on the alcan by bicycle and apparentley the closest one down the road are a guy from Taiwan whos heading for San Fransisco. So don't be surprised if next post is about how life is holding up for team Sweden/Taiwan along the Alcan :). In Whitehorse I checked in on Robert Service Campground and had a fun night by the campfire with some people from Vancouver.
In the morning I packed up my stuff and headed down to the library along the Yukon River. My plan was to do a long post on the blog but, as you notice, an hour is not enough if you got a lot to write. I criused along the streets of whitehorse for a couple of hours and looked in some stores and more before I took of. The day went fairly quick and not to much happened, could be because I only passed one gasstation in Jakes corner, otherwise, just me and the rolling hills through Yukons forest. I stopped and made camp just by a lake. The thing with the biking up here is to take a lot of short brakes during the day. if you take a longer one you have to put up the tent because the mosquitos will start eat on you pretty quick. I dressed to other clothes and put up my tent while I was doing some kind of dance to wave the small bastards away. I through in my bags in the tent and had a lay down for some music and reading. At midnight I woke up amazed that I couldn't see the time on my wristclock that I attached it the roof in the tent. It's finally getting alittle bit darker :). I had a problem thou. The only thing I could hear was the sound of mosquitos outside and I had to take care of some business that could impossible be done from inside the tent. After setting guiness wolrd record on doing numero dos I was back in the tent and didn't have to leave the sack until morning :).
I woke up by the sound of heavy rain. I didn't know about it then but that rain was gonna be constant for a couple of days. It's only one thing to do, specially when your'e 60 km from closest anything, dress up and try to get the heat up on the bike. I decided that Teslin was gonna be my lunchstop and totally soaked I arrived there and bought 2 slices of pizza and a mt dew on the general store. oh, actually, a cheesecake size a la America went through my throat also :).
I can definetely tell the amount of wildlife is starting to add up. Blackbears are crossing the raod in the same intervals I eat peanutbutter sandwiches, which is, pretty often. After Teslin I met a nice couple on bikes that were heading north. They had seen 25 (!) bears along the Cassier HW. By suppertime I met this dude, Steve from Utah, who was going towards Fairbanks. We had a good chat for half an hour and he told me he seen a , what he called it, gigantic grizzly sneaking in the bushes along the road just before he met me. A RV came and the bear buggered of.
The rain hanged in all evening and night and I crashed in the tent behind a hill somewere along the road. By morning the rain was really strong and a lot of my gear, wet. . I remember what Dave said:
"If my gear is not good enough for the weather, I shouldn't be out there. I should check in on Starbucks"
Well mate, I would love to do that, but, there aint no Starbucks around :)
I biked 3 hours in puring rain till I came to a truckstop and took a break for early lunch to hope the rain was gonna go down a little bit. I talked to the Canadians on the other table and they said the forecast was rain and drizzle to friday. With a smile I said fantastic, whats today?
-"Monday, sir"
F#ck :)
After kind of a long break I actually got a 30 minutes break in the rain until someone up there started to piss on me again. I plugged in some Luke Bryan and the song "Rain is a good thing" on my Ipod and put my head down in the tarmac :). Youtube the song, it's really good, Emil know what I'm talking about:).
On late afternoon it stopped raining and I had beutiful biking on the rolling hills of the Alcan HW. I met Sebastian and Julie who was a young couple from Vancouver Island heading north towards whitehorse. later on I find a good plave to put up my tent at Big Creek. I met a german couple and the old man there splitted up some firewood fore me and later on an estonian couple came by and suddenly I had a smoked salmon sandwich in my left hand, a cider in the right one and a beer in my pocket, people are nice :). In the middle of the night I woke up by the sound of........hehe yeah, rain :).
I started out pretty early to get the 60 km to Watson lake which would be the destionation for the day. Just a slighly bit of drizzly on the way there which wasn't bad at all. I decided I was gonna stay on the campground there to try to get my clothes in some kind of laundry, it's start to get a little bit bad actuallt specially when the are both wet and the smell from campfire :). When I arrived I saw an old fella with a small camper van. on the back of it he had a small sticker with the Swedish flag on an I asked were he was from. It was Hans Larsson who moved here 1957 and we had an intresting conversation in swenglish.
"Hello, my name ar Hans. Jag er from Colorado but are on semester her uppe right now" something like that
I realized that at the moment I putting my sentences togheter way better in english than in Swedish :)
Thats all from Watson Lake. Hopefully you will hear more from Dawson Creek 1000 km southeast from here
Over and out
Grizzlyman